AW 2015 PRELUDE WOMENSWEAR AND MENSWEAR

PRELUDE.

Chalayan Women’s and Menswear A/W 2015 collections evolves around the film “Murder on the Orient Express” inspired by the 1934 Agatha Christie novel of the same title.

The book, written in the beginning of the 20th Century, essentially appears to be another murder mystery suspense story. However the journey beginning in Istanbul and heading to London layers references of the relations between the Occident and the Orient at the time.

Starting in the Orient, already imbued with the unknown, fear and mystery, the story is a rich weave of fiction, perceptions of the East and the Might of landscape.

THE INTERPRETATION.

The collections look at 13 suspicious characters and their attire in the film from beginning to the end. The events in the film and these characters inspire a contemporary wardrobe.

The arrival of the passengers in Fur and Outerwear is represented in a Chalayan language mixing luxurious cashmere blends with faux fur. The staff’s uniforms are reworked into outerwear in utilitarian cottons.

Patterns worn by lead characters (Mrs Hubbard and Hildegarde Schmidt in 1st Class and during interrogation scenarios) are used as inspiration for lux jacquards; mixing metal threads and synthetic silks and as graphic prints layered together to create one final new hybrid.

Striking embroideries on sweat shirts depict abstract translations of Poirot’s movements in midst of solving the mystery.

A poignant moment in the film when the train is stuck in a snow storm is represented as a flock print over checked tailoring inspired by jackets worn by Colonel Arbuthnot. This is also used as an inspiration for a jacquard and print depicting the train under snow with shafts of light searching for it. Another key print looks at the scenario in reverse through the eyes of a passenger, at the train window complete with dew collecting from the cold.

Despite the time of the story of “Murder on the Orient Express” the sensibility of the collection is a modern Chalayan approach to design, with a strong emphasis on precision cutting, shape and the combination of texture.

Fabrics are a luxurious combination of mixed wools and cashmeres, jacquards and synthetic pleated silks. Key to the collection embroidered sweatshirts, felt blankets and there is also a strong use of tailoring fabrics for relaxed as well as moulded body conscious coats and jackets.

Patterns taken from clothing of the characters in the film are enlarged and stylized, and many scenarios have become prints inseparable from the weave of the fabrics. Key colours include a strong black and white, tones of grey, petrol & electric blues, pale pinks and burgundy.

 

Press Contact: Florence Storey, +44 207 629 4633, Florence.Storey@spring-london.com

THREE FACES. ARCHIVE CHALAYAN

With a preface by Judith Clark, this publication showcases garments selected from the archives of designer Hussein Chalayan from 1997 – 2010.

Archivist – published by Jane Howard and Micheal Harrison is a fashion journal which showcases designer’s archives, personal collections and new emerging talent. With a unique view of the fashion industry it is non seasonal and takes no advertising.

Three Faces. Archive Chalayan

Published by

Archivist Editions

Available @ Chalayan Store

 

CHALAYAN SPRING SUMMER 2015 MOOR’S GAZE BACKSTAGE & BEHIND THE SCENES IMAGES

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN ANNOUNCES A MULTI-SEASON COLLABORATION WITH PARIS-BASED LUXURY BRAND VSP

VSP-AW-04

Defined by 27 years of leather design innovation, VSP brand combines expert techniques, that marry artistic craft with technical evolution to  give contemporary forms to luxury leather, shearling, knits and special fabrics. Currently present in 14 different countries, VSP is stocked at some of the most prestigious retailers in the world, including Harvey Nichols (London), LuisaViaRoma (Florence), Gio Moretti (Milan) and Isetan (Tokyo).

“VSP Chalayan” collection will see VSP’s signature leather and special fabrics, from delicate cottons to linens, reinterpreted by Hussein Chalayan for a series of twenty unique womenswear pieces.

“I am truly honoured and excited to be collaborating with VSP to produce the VSP Chalayan collection. First of its kind for the Chalayan brand, I feel that the collection will be a strong culmination of design, innovation, craftsmanship, playfulness and desirability. The inspiration for the pieces is a reflection of the Chalayan house language and also aligned with the existing VSP aesthetic, culminating in a collection which would have never existed without this collaboration. ”  Hussein Chalayan

The Spring/Summer 2015 capsule collection  will be launched in tandem with the official opening of the VSP Paris Flagship Store during Paris Fashion Week in September 2014.

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN IS RELAUNCHING HIS MEN`S WEAR LINE

CHALAYAN MAN S/S 2015

MOOR’S CHORUS

Chalayan introduces a men’s capsule collection of 22 styles for Spring/Summer 2015.

The collection consists of Moorish inspired weaves and jacquard patterns in light fresh colours seen in form of blousons, jackets, trousers, shorts and layered shirts providing rich ingredients for extensive texture mixing.

Prints are inspired by the idea of the “gaze” in Moorish environments where secret zones are looked at through apertures, in this instance revealing budding courgette flowers or hidden riad courtyards revealing shadows of tangerine trees on tiled floors. Another pivotal print is a display of tangerine trees themselves lined up in a Moorish water irrigation grid inspired by the church courtyards of buildings that were once mosques.

The collection is mainly smart/casual, with a minimal feel, whilst providing many ingredients for a more playful mix with prints and lightweight transparent fabrics.

The Chalayan man is someone who has a diverse range of interests and knows how to dress for the occasion but follows no particular rules.

The collection is conceived with a spirit of innovation, practicality and precision cutting combined with a sense of playfulness, inviting a variety of customer who can pick and choose to make the collection their own.