Chalayan Women’s and Menswear A/W 2015 collections evolves around the film “Murder on the Orient Express” inspired by the 1934 Agatha Christie novel of the same title.
The book, written in the beginning of the 20th Century, essentially appears to be another murder mystery suspense story. However the journey beginning in Istanbul and heading to London layers references of the relations between the Occident and the Orient at the time.
Starting in the Orient, already imbued with the unknown, fear and mystery, the story is a rich weave of fiction, perceptions of the East and the Might of landscape.
The collections look at 13 suspicious characters and their attire in the film from beginning to the end. The events in the film and these characters inspire a contemporary wardrobe.
The arrival of the passengers in Fur and Outerwear is represented in a Chalayan language mixing luxurious cashmere blends with faux fur. The staff’s uniforms are reworked into outerwear in utilitarian cottons.
Patterns worn by lead characters (Mrs Hubbard and Hildegarde Schmidt in 1st Class and during interrogation scenarios) are used as inspiration for lux jacquards; mixing metal threads and synthetic silks and as graphic prints layered together to create one final new hybrid.
Striking embroideries on sweat shirts depict abstract translations of Poirot’s movements in midst of solving the mystery.
A poignant moment in the film when the train is stuck in a snow storm is represented as a flock print over checked tailoring inspired by jackets worn by Colonel Arbuthnot. This is also used as an inspiration for a jacquard and print depicting the train under snow with shafts of light searching for it. Another key print looks at the scenario in reverse through the eyes of a passenger, at the train window complete with dew collecting from the cold.
Despite the time of the story of “Murder on the Orient Express” the sensibility of the collection is a modern Chalayan approach to design, with a strong emphasis on precision cutting, shape and the combination of texture.
Fabrics are a luxurious combination of mixed wools and cashmeres, jacquards and synthetic pleated silks. Key to the collection embroidered sweatshirts, felt blankets and there is also a strong use of tailoring fabrics for relaxed as well as moulded body conscious coats and jackets.
Patterns taken from clothing of the characters in the film are enlarged and stylized, and many scenarios have become prints inseparable from the weave of the fabrics. Key colours include a strong black and white, tones of grey, petrol & electric blues, pale pinks and burgundy.
Press Contact: Florence Storey, +44 207 629 4633, Florence.Storey@spring-london.com